Voltaire's elegant dining room.

o say France no longer enjoys the favored status it once held in the U.S. would be some understatement. Fortunately, American restaurants serving French cuisine haven't been held accountable for current political views and actions of the French government; I knew there had to be a shred of sanity left in the world.

French winemakers, on the other hand…

Oh forget culinary politics, I've much more delicious topics to consider, like a captivating evening of classically prepared French cuisine (right down to an ethereal sole that's graciously boned tableside). What's more astounding, staff is impeccably trained, prices are quite reasonable, and it's actually located in Scottsdale. So where's this sophisticated new eatery? Which experienced Valley restaurateur has launched a true French charmer? What chef was recently imported to enthrall our tastebuds? The answer is, none of the above. That's right, Voltaire has been quietly operating on McDonald just west of Granite Reef for years.

So why isn't everyone flocking there? In restaurant and media circles, new eateries garner the spotlight. I'd also heard Voltaire was, well, rather sedate. Yet my first visit (a one-course stop during a progressive dinner) left me feeling there was something alluringly familiar about the place. Next visit it clicked; the majority of highly acclaimed restaurants in France are not sleek, glitzy, impressive in size or overly trendy in fare.

Even Michelin Star restaurants are found in converted homes with low ceilings, sporting little of the dashing decor Americans expect in legendary dining shrines. Fresh flowers, crisp linens and a few pieces of well-placed artwork convey ambience; these places rely on menu and staff to provide extraordinary dining experiences. Shades of Voltaire.

Appetizers at Voltaire include well-executed classics like ESCARGOTS DE BOURGOGNE; plump, tender snails bathed in lots of fresh minced garlic, clarified butter and a touch of finely minced parsley. We had trouble deciding who got the better deal, me or my colleague, who ordered the MOULES VOLTAIRE; glistening ebony shells hid creamy textured mussels boasting a clean, briny essence; the simple white wine reduction gained subtle dimension from bits of celery and onion.

Another visit, I indulged in Voltaire's PATE MAISON, slices of silky, dissolve-on-contact duck pate sporting a small diamond of black truffle in the center. The pate was served with slivered cornichons and crisp toast points; we noted, a more generous offering of toast would have been welcome. My dining partner succumbed to the appetizer special, a plate of exquisitely prepared asparagus and firm, earthy morels modestly presented in butter with a hint of garlic. Such a simple, unexpected pairing was captivating; what I'd anticipate from a family-owned provencal eatery.

With French cuisine I've discovered, soupe du jour is quite an accurate yardstick for measuring a menu's potential. That being said, one taste of Voltaire's lentil potage and I was ashamed I'd not given the place a try earlier. It was magnificent, having been slowly simmered with finely diced vegetables, developing an opulent nature and melting texture. This was, hands down, the best lentil soup I've ever eaten. A cream-laden morel and portobello soupe was almost as blissful. French onion was a generous offering of caramelized onions suspended in ultra-luxurious veal stock. Topped with crisp toast and thick bubbling cheese. Voltaire's version put most I've eaten to shame!

Out of a trio of salads, only the FROMAGE DE CHEVRE piqued my interest. Mixed baby greens and spinach were tossed with a suave shallot vinaigrette until glossy, then served topped with a generous melt of goat cheese. Although not very attractive, the warm goat cheese and slightly bitter greens were an impressively paired duet.

If you order their green salad with blue cheese, don't expect some goopy Americanized slathering made with sour cream or buttermilk. In France (and at Voltaire!) they prefer a subtle vinaigrette enhanced with bits of crumbled blue cheese. Entree prices also include vegetable and potatoes. Julienne carrots, asparagus spears or yellow squash with pearl onions were all pristinely fresh and well seasoned. Do trust me on this one; forget counting carbs and indulge in Voltaire's scalloped potatoes. They're so exquisite, you won't even hate yourself the next morning.

Ah, French restaurants can be very romantic too; for us it was love at first bite of FILET MIGNON BEARNAISE; buttery tender with a flawless union of sauce and beef. Another delectable version was offered as a recurring Tuesday special, FILET MIGNON OSCAR. This beefy take on the traditional Veal Oscar was, again, tender enough to cut with a fork and topped with lovely lump crab bound in a light sauce. This was so masterfully prepared, my dining companion proposed marrying the chef. Owner Martin Antonelli declined on the chef's behalf; Voltaire's classically trained chef (and veteran of numerous New York fine-dining establishments) happens to be his son, David Antonelli.

Departing the beef realm, I explored LE CANARD A L 'ORANGE; the duck had crackling crisp skin and tender meat; that thick layer of obnoxious fat usually sandwiched between had been skillfully “melted” away. Even better, the not-too-sweet sauce had been generously spiked with Grand Marnier: LE CARRE D'AGNEAU was a real half rack of lamb; five succulent double chops seasoned with fresh herbs; crisp outside, rare inside, it was presented in a light demi-glace.

Anyone who has suffered through “occupationally challenged” service will thrill at having an order of golden-crusted sole boned tableside with skillful panache. Literally reassembled sans bones that crisp, delectable exterior was unmarred. Speaking of service, it was impeccable.

Some desserts at Voltaire are classically brilliant. The CREPES SUZETTE, prepared tableside, were basted with a velvety butter-citrus sauce and flambeed via Grand Marnier and Cognac. The cherries in CHERRIES JUBILEE had first been marinated to provide an edge of unexpected richness. They too were flambeed tableside, this time with cherry brandy and only a splash of Grand Marnier before ladling over premium vanilla ice cream. Less than brilliant were PROFITEROLES, classic puffs of choux pastry had been filled with ice cream rather than silky, egg-enriched custard; we agreed custard is far more appealing. FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE baked in a terrine had an intense chocolate profile, but dry, grainy texture. Thankfully, superb TIRAMISU and exquisite CREME BRULEE more than made up for that dulcet lapse.

It's true, most of Voltaire's patrons are mature; yet prime ingredients, skilled preparation, refined service and affordable prices should put Voltaire on everyone's “A” dining list. Perhaps it's time this gem is rediscovered by a whole new generation of aficionados. Heck. if the hip and stylish in N.Y., L.A. and San Francisco can head out on Saturday nights to play bingo (yes, that's the hottest party thing going now), there's no reason the Valley chic can't begin their own, more discriminating trend; reveling in authentic French cuisine at Voltaire.


Lodged in Nostalgia
Carey Sweet, The Arizona Republic

Remember Voltaire. The French restaurant has been quietly operating at McDonald Drive and Granite Reef Road for 32 years, and if it's old-style you want, it's old-style they've got.

Everything here drips classic sophistication, and even under relatively new
ownership (Martin, David, Lydia and Joseph Antonelli purchased the property eight years ago), the tradition still stands from when the restaurant opened in 1983.

Voltaire serves all the favorites, such as chef David's roast duckling in orange sauce, calf sweetbreads in lemon butter with capers, rack of lamb and his signature sand-dab saute in lemon butter with white grapes. Mark your calendar for daily specials, too, like Tuesday's Dover sole night, featuring imported fish deboned tableside and moistened in lemon butter sauce.

There are some nods to more modern tastes, such as the four-course tasting menu being offered June 17 for $55. Start with foie gras, local peaches and vanilla brioche. Move on to Crab 2 Ways (crispy soft-shell crab and McClendon Farm squash blossom stuffed with jumbo lump crab meat). Next is Colorado rack of lamb with local spring vegetables, finishing up with strawberry rhubarb tart and lemon sorbet.

You need to hurry in. Because if you're a long-time Valley-ite, you remember when we used to have seasons, and during the summer many restaurants completely shut down because business simply was too slow. Voltaire adheres to that convention and will close June 27 through Sept. 10.