... prime ingredients, skilled preparation, refined
service and affordable prices should put Voltaire on everyone's ''A''
dining list.
-
Food Editor, Food and Lifestyles Magazine
 |
| Voltaire's elegant dining room. |
|
o
say France no longer enjoys the favored status it once held in the
U.S. would be some understatement. Fortunately, American restaurants
serving French cuisine haven't been held accountable for current
political views and actions of the French government; I knew there
had to be a shred of sanity left in the world.
French winemakers,
on the other hand…
Oh forget culinary politics, I've much more delicious topics to
consider, like a captivating evening of classically prepared French
cuisine (right down to an ethereal sole that's graciously boned
tableside). What's more astounding, staff is impeccably trained,
prices are quite reasonable, and it's actually located in Scottsdale.
So where's this sophisticated new eatery? Which experienced Valley
restaurateur has launched a true French charmer? What chef was recently
imported to enthrall our tastebuds? The answer is, none of the above.
That's right, Voltaire has been quietly operating on McDonald just
west of Granite Reef for years.
So why isn't everyone flocking there? In restaurant and media circles,
new eateries garner the spotlight. I'd also heard Voltaire was,
well, rather sedate. Yet my first visit (a one-course stop during
a progressive dinner) left me feeling there was something alluringly
familiar about the place. Next visit it clicked; the majority of
highly acclaimed restaurants in France are not sleek, glitzy, impressive
in size or overly trendy in fare.
Even Michelin Star restaurants are found in converted homes
with low ceilings, sporting little of the dashing decor Americans
expect in legendary dining shrines. Fresh flowers, crisp linens
and a few pieces of well-placed artwork convey ambience; these
places rely on menu and staff to provide extraordinary dining
experiences. Shades of Voltaire.
Appetizers at Voltaire include well-executed classics like ESCARGOTS
DE BOURGOGNE; plump, tender snails bathed in lots of fresh minced
garlic, clarified butter and a touch of finely minced parsley. We
had trouble deciding who got the better deal, me or my colleague,
who ordered the MOULES VOLTAIRE; glistening ebony shells hid creamy
textured mussels boasting a clean, briny essence; the simple
white wine reduction gained subtle dimension from bits of celery
and onion.
Another visit, I indulged in Voltaire's PATE MAISON, slices of
silky, dissolve-on-contact duck pate sporting a small diamond
of black truffle in the center. The pate was served with slivered
cornichons and crisp toast points; we noted, a more generous offering
of toast would have been welcome. My dining partner succumbed
to the appetizer special, a plate of exquisitely prepared asparagus
and firm, earthy morels modestly presented in butter with a hint
of garlic. Such a simple, unexpected pairing was captivating;
what I'd anticipate from a family-owned provencal eatery.
With French cuisine I've discovered, soupe du jour is quite an accurate
yardstick for measuring a menu's potential. That being said,
one taste of Voltaire's lentil potage and I was ashamed I'd not
given the place a try earlier. It was magnificent, having been
slowly simmered with finely diced vegetables, developing an
opulent nature and melting texture. This was, hands down, the
best lentil soup I've ever eaten. A cream-laden morel and portobello
soupe was almost as blissful. French onion was a generous offering
of caramelized onions suspended in ultra-luxurious veal stock.
Topped with crisp toast and thick bubbling cheese. Voltaire's version
put most I've eaten to shame!
Out of a trio of salads, only the FROMAGE DE CHEVRE piqued my interest.
Mixed baby greens and spinach were tossed with a suave shallot
vinaigrette until glossy, then served topped with a generous melt
of goat cheese. Although not very attractive, the warm goat cheese
and slightly bitter greens were an impressively paired duet.
All entrees include soupe du jour or salade verte. If you order
their green salad with blue cheese, don't expect some goopy Americanized
slathering made with sour cream or buttermilk. In France (and at
Voltaire!) they prefer a subtle vinaigrette enhanced with bits
of crumbled blue cheese. Entree prices also include vegetable and
potatoes. Julienne carrots, asparagus spears or yellow squash with
pearl onions were all pristinely fresh and well seasoned. Do trust
me on this one; forget counting carbs and indulge in Voltaire's
scalloped potatoes. They're so exquisite, you won't even hate yourself
the next morning.
Ah, French restaurants can be very romantic too; for us it was
love at first bite of FILET MIGNON BEARNAISE; buttery tender with
a flawless union of sauce and beef. Another delectable version was
offered as a recurring Tuesday special, FILET MIGNON OSCAR. This
beefy take on the traditional Veal Oscar was, again, tender enough
to cut with a fork and topped with lovely lump crab bound in a light
sauce. This was so masterfully prepared, my dining companion proposed
marrying the chef. Owner Martin Antonelli declined on the chef's
behalf; Voltaire's classically trained chef (and veteran of numerous
New York fine-dining establishments) happens to be his son, David
Antonelli.
Departing the beef realm, I explored LE CANARD A L 'ORANGE; the
duck had crackling crisp skin and tender meat; that thick layer
of obnoxious fat usually sandwiched between had been skillfully
“melted” away. Even better, the not-too-sweet sauce
had been generously spiked with Grand Marnier: LE CARRE D'AGNEAU
was a real half rack of lamb; five succulent double chops seasoned
with fresh herbs; crisp outside, rare inside, it was presented in
a light demi-glace.
Anyone who has suffered through “occupationally challenged”
service will thrill at having an order of golden-crusted sole boned
tableside with skillful panache. Literally reassembled sans bones
that crisp, delectable exterior was unmarred. Speaking of service,
it was impeccable.
Some desserts at Voltaire are classically brilliant. The CREPES
SUZETTE, prepared tableside, were basted with a velvety butter-citrus
sauce and flambeed via Grand Marnier and Cognac. The cherries in
CHERRIES JUBILEE had first been marinated to provide an edge of
unexpected richness. They too were flambeed tableside, this time
with cherry brandy and only a splash of Grand Marnier before ladling
over premium vanilla ice cream. Less than brilliant were PROFITEROLES,
classic puffs of choux pastry had been filled with ice cream rather
than silky, egg-enriched custard; we agreed custard is far more
appealing. FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE baked in a terrine had an intense
chocolate profile, but dry, grainy texture. Thankfully, superb TIRAMISU
and exquisite CREME BRULEE more than made up for that dulcet lapse.
It's true, most of Voltaire's patrons are mature; yet prime ingredients,
skilled preparation, refined service and affordable prices should
put Voltaire on everyone's “A” dining list. Perhaps
it's time this gem is rediscovered by a whole new generation of
aficionados. Heck. if the hip and stylish in N.Y., L.A. and San
Francisco can head out on Saturday nights to play bingo (yes, that's
the hottest party thing going now), there's no reason the Valley
chic can't begin their own, more discriminating trend; reveling
in authentic French cuisine at Voltaire. |
 |